Perhaps the best way to recognize Peru's diversity is to express it via food. Peruvian food is often described as the ultimate fusion, where you'll find a mix of Andean, Amazonian, coastal, European, and Asian influences. On the cutting edge of the culinary arts, innovative chefs are pushing the envelope and constantly evolving the Peruvian food scene. However, Central, run and owned by Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leon, shows that Peru's natural diversity is so great that chefs need not look beyond the country's borders for new plates and flavors. The 16-course meal at Central showcases the delicious possibilities made when creative chefs come upon the nearly endless options offered by a variety of herbs, meats, and produce. This can be described as a culinary trip through Peru, taken from your table in Barranco, Lima. Each plate has a name and a number, the number being the altitude where all the ingredients from the plate are found. The numbers start at below zero for seafood dishes, climb up to 4,500 meters where plates are sourced from frigid Andean ecosystems, and then drop again for tropical-inspired dishes. Plates are small and can be simple, including ingredients diners are not familiar with but often surprise. For our first dish, we had the grilled octopus, which was Janina's favorite dish of our meal- shocking considering she normally stays far away from eating the 8-legged mollusk! Tip for those on a budget: The price for the set meal is currently S/.592, however if you are looking for a less expense option try the bar area. There is no regular set menu but instead one may order full plate options from a selection of the 16 courses. The two of us did this and were content and full after sharing the octopus plus two more dishes, desert, and drinks. The drinks were refreshing fruit juices, mine made with camu-camu, by far my favorite hard-to-find fruit. Desert was lucuma bark drizzled with chocolate sourced from the Peruvian amazon and it was the perfect ending to the meal.With a generous tip the total came to S/.300. Less than $100 total for a date at one of the highest-ranked restaurants in the world definitely seemed like a deal to us. Central is currently ranked as the #5 restaurant in the world, tops in Latin America. The restaurant and bar only accept reservations up to a certain date set in advance. To see the menu and other options offered by Martinez and Leon, go to https://centralrestaurante.com.pe/en/index.html. If you've been to Central or have other comments on innovative Peruvian food, please leave a comment below!
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Probably the most famous site near Chachapoyas is the ancient pre-inca citadel of Kuelap. Still being excavated, it is sold as the Machu Picchu of the north. BUT, visiting Kuelap is not like visiting Machu Picchu. First, you can book the tour of Kuelap the day before, giving your trip more flexibility. The options for Kuelap are to take a 4-hour hike, a 20 minute cable car (which is like an enclosed ski lift), or a car ride that is only for fans of nausea. We took the cable car option. There are tons of tour agencies in Chachapoyas that can book you a round-trip visit of Kuelap, which includes the bus ride, lunch, a guide, and the cable car for S/70 (about $20). There are likely more options in high season, but we visited in the shoulder season (late April, when the rainy season was ending) and had no trouble finding an agency. The cable car is located at Tingo, which is about one hour from Chachapoyas. After the 20 minute ride over two valleys, the cable car drops you off at the entrance of the trail to Kuelap. The walk from there is only about 20 minutes uphill, and the tour of the site is about three hours. You can easily make a day trip out of this from Chachapoyas. Upon reaching Kuelap, you'll notice another way Kuelap and Machu Picchu differ- the architecture. The Chachapoyas culture, like many preinca cultures, had round structures, and these were topped off with straw that gave them a tepee look. Square structures at Kuelap were installed by the conquering Incas. The Kuelap people also literally buried their great warriors INSIDE the fortress to keep protecting the people after death. There are spots at Kuelap that were giant holes used to keep food cold until the homeowner died, when the icebox became their tomb! You literally find bones stuck inside holes in walls. Much like how modern day people of Chachapoyas store coffee or plates in cabinets, their ancestors stored their ancestors. Another reason "Machu Picchu of the North" is a misnomer: The people of Kuelap were kind of mortal enemies of the Incas. When the Incas arrived, they gave the Chachapoyas two options: Join the Inca empire as trading partners, where the Chachapoya leaders would still be royalty but would have to give up important religious relics to be held in Cuzco in deference to the empire, or fight. The Chachapoyas chose to fight, lost, and years later allied themselves with the Spanish in revenge against the Incas. Due to this history the Chachapoya language is no longer spoken, and Quechua (the language of the Incas) is not used in the area either. Finally, Kuelap is older than Machu Picchu. The Chachapoyas would probably insist Machu Picchu was the Kuelap of the south, but hey, winners write the tourist slogans. Kuelap was an impenetrable fortress. In fact, the only way the Incas were able to defeat the Chachapoyas was by cutting Kuelap off from the outside world (and therefore the inhabitants' food sources). The three entrances are narrow with steep steps, and therefore very easy to defend. The widest entrance was for servants, making one assume that if a noble got too fat, he or she would be relegated to servitude by default. The name "Chachapoyas" translates to "the warriors of the clouds", which is accurate given the amazing views of the other mountaintops from Kuelap. The fortress itself sits on top of a mountain and its isolation is why it had not been studied until relatively recently. Visiting Kuelap is a great experience off the typical Gringo trail, and if you go now you'll get the awe-inspiring views, stories to tell back home, and great photo ops without the huge throngs of tourists. Check out Kuelap!! Have you been to Kuelap or plan to go soon? Do you have questions or tips for fellow travelers? Please comment below! Chachapoyas is steadily becoming a popular tourist area in northern Peru, a section of Peru often ignored by visitors before. The main attractions are not in town however, so be careful to leave time in your itinerary to appreciate the city of "Chacha" itself. In our visit, we took advantage of the bar and cafe presence that caters to tourists and backpackers. After all, there's nothing like a cold beer with friends after traipsing in the tropical heat all day, or a nice strong brew to wake you up the day after a multi-day hike! I think the main reason I like hiking may be for that feeling afterwards. It's a mix of the thrill of accomplishment, a sense of almost meditative relaxation from every bit of your energy having been used, and the enjoyment of doing something with great company. It's not a feeling I've encountered by doing anything else. So while you're in that post-hike high in Chachapoyas, consider these options below. El Batan del Tayta Perhaps the ultimate place to try regional delicacies in large portions, fun cocktails, and even ants! The ceja de selva in this part of Peru offers plates more related to the Sierra or Selva but often with its own twist, and this restaurant does a great job in presenting those flavors. "Batan" is a bit pricier than other options but the decor, portions, and taste make it worth it. You will probably also learn of a few fruits that you've never heard of before; I tried a Pisco drink with something called Pur-pur that was served in a wooden goblet. Most essentially, the vibe in this place was perfect for our celebration after hiking Kuelap all day! Cafe Amazonas 632 This cafe-restaurant has both drinks and coffees in addition to deserts and more American cafe-style fare. If you're suffering culture shock and want something that seems more like lunch back in the USA, you can try here. But the laid-back style of this place offers good post-hike drinking opportunities as well. It's also easy to find- the address is its name! Cafe Fusiones This is located in one of Chachapoyas's plazas and hard to miss when walking by. It's your quintessential cafe-bar-bookstore hybrid that backpackers flock to and spend hours lounging in. It's also part of the Ruta del Cafe (see below), but I put Fusiones apart since this offers artisanal beer, ceramics, locally-made souvenirs, and travel books, giving it more of a touristy vibe compared to the other cafes in Chachapoyas. Ruta del Cafe Perfect for a day of rest after a vacation of hiking around Amazonas, especially if you're like me and love trying coffees and don't mind (or enjoy!!) being a tad over-caffeinated. This is a network of cafes in the city that use locally and fair- trade sourced coffee. Each cafe offers something different as well as its own mode of preparing coffee. You can visit all in half a day and on your own, but tour groups are offered too. All you have to do is enter one of these cafes and ask about the ruta del cafe, and they can provide you with a tasting of their coffee, backstory of the store, and a map of the route. Cafes that stood out to us were Karajia, which has great regional breakfast food, Cal Payes, owned by a Amazonas-Catalunya couple, and Santa Margarita, which is next to a great spot to view the city. Any of these would work for a nice pick-me-up in the middle of the day too. Of course, this list is nowhere near exhaustive. If you've been to Chachapoyas and have more tips on where to eat and drink, please write in the comments section below! So let’s say you’ve decided to go off the gringo trail, to an authentically Andean city in the middle of Peru. If so, you should consider Huancayo- a large city in the department of Junin, located at over 10,000 feet above sea level. It’s best known for its artesian works, including silver, ceramic, and wool. You can expect an experience impacted by few other tourists or perhaps none, in an authentic and less expensive part of the country if you visit. This is a city I came to know very well during my first two years as a Peace Corps volunteer, since it was my regional capital and where I would go twice a month for mail, internet and phone use, catching up with other volunteers, and a nice hot shower. First of all, how to get there? If you can truly splurge, consider the train Ferrocarril Central Andino S.A. (website, with traditional train sounds). Yes, it's pricey, and yes, it's long, but its upsides more than make up for it. The train only runs about once a month and actually takes longer than the bus. But this is the highest passenger train in the Americas, starting near sea level and climbing up to over 15,000 feet as it passes through 69 tunnels, over 58 bridges and through 6 "zig zags". My favorite part was watching the landscapes change with a drink in hand at the bar car. As a bonus, you'll learn panpipes and "El Condor Pasa" by heart, since it's the only music they play for the advertised 13 hour trip. Granted, ours took longer- about 14 or 15 hours, but most things in Peru are not punctual. All in all, the train is a rare, unforgettable experience that most travelers to Peru don't even know about. OK, so now you're in Huancayo, by either the train or one of the many bus companies that visit such as Cruz del Sur. What is one to do in this city that's pretty unknown to international visitors? Most of these items below require little time to visit, and you can visit multiple in a day. Huancayo's central location also makes it a great stepping-stone for other sites such as the Selva Central (Oxapampa, Tarma, Pozuzo, etc.), the Reserva Paisajistica Nor-Yauyos Cochas, and Huancavelica. 1. Parque de la Identitad Huanca This park consists of beautiful works of stone, statues, and plants native to the Huancayo region. It's worth checking out for an hour or two, and some good restaurants are within walking distance. The level of detail and amount of objects actually inside is impressive. Highly recommended for lovers of irony, because this park dedicated to the local Huanca culture and people is modeled off of a similar park in Spain. 2. Get Lost in the Market(s) Huancayo is just a big market, really. If you visit on a Sunday, the size of the outdoor market rivals that of entire cities in other parts of Peru. My favorite is the artesian market next to the main plaza, where you can find scarves, hats, gloves, even slippers made of sheep and llama wool for cheap. The food markets are indoor and typical of the Sierra, with Quechua-speaking women selling all colors of potatoes and other products from nearby. There are nearby towns that specialize in specific artesian works, such as silver and ceramics, as well. 3. Torre Torre This site is inside the actual city and consists of tall towering rock piles. It's not a large area but is incredibly unique with tall, thin red and orange rock formations, rare in the Andes. 4. Adventure Tourism Options Although I visited Huancayo every month during my first Peace Corps service, I've actually never done these! Living in the rural campo, I didn’t want to rough it when outside of the village. There are tour operators for tourists to visit the snow-capped mountain Huaytapallana or take a bike down to the jungle, among other options. Since Huancayo isn't very touristy, you can be spontaneous instead of having to buy a spot for these tours well ahead of time. 5. Cerrito de la Libertad This is a small park at the top of a hill, and the location gives you a great view of the city and Mantaro valley. It’s worth a visit for the photos, to take in the views, and is located right in town. 6. Plaza de la Constitucion So, Peru's constitution was signed in Huancayo. But you'd never know by visiting this plaza- they don't sell it quite as well as Independence Hall in Philadelphia does. Still, it's an experience being in the main plaza, knowing its history and importance. This is near Coqui (see below) and an artesian market is located at the corner of this plaza. 7. Peña and Calientitos When it gets cold, try a calientito- these are warm pisco-based drinks that are perfect for getting cozy. Calientitos are also called chamis. This drink is very Huancaino and common throughout the region. A peña is a traditional show, and many offer great drink and food prices. Together they make a great combination for ending the day! 8. Cafe Coqui A great place to pass time or to share with someone over espresso and snacks. They have a good selection of pastries, and this is where I learned how to ask for cheesecake in Peru, when my friend tried to order a "Torta de Queso" and was corrected by the waitress, who said they only have cheesecake available- apparently they just say "cheesecake". I've spent countless hours using their wifi, reading emails or taking advantage of their happy hour with friends. 9. If you're looking for something obscure- Parque de los Sombreros Literally, Sombrero Park. I wouldn’t call this place life-changing. The main feature of this plaza is its namesake, which are gigantic sombrero statues modeled after the bowler hats worn by women in the city. If you feel this is tacky, you wouldn't be the first. It must be a cultural thing, because I just don’t get it. The only reason I know this park exists is because the car that left Huancayo for my site in Peace Corps left from here at 4:30AM every morning, and it was the only option for transportation. I actually don't even know what the entire park looks like, since there was no sunlight (and I was always half asleep) when I visited. But the larger-than-life sombreros are there. This I know. I have witnessed them. Of course, this list is not complete and was written in no particular order. Have you visited Huancayo or wish to soon? Do you have tips on other options in the city, or something to add to anything above? Feel free to comment and share with fellow explorers and explorers-at-heart! |
AuthorBrad Goodman Archives
May 2019
CategoriesAll Amazonas Andes Chachapoyas Huancayo Peru Rural Tourism Trains |