So let’s say you’ve decided to go off the gringo trail, to an authentically Andean city in the middle of Peru. If so, you should consider Huancayo- a large city in the department of Junin, located at over 10,000 feet above sea level. It’s best known for its artesian works, including silver, ceramic, and wool. You can expect an experience impacted by few other tourists or perhaps none, in an authentic and less expensive part of the country if you visit. This is a city I came to know very well during my first two years as a Peace Corps volunteer, since it was my regional capital and where I would go twice a month for mail, internet and phone use, catching up with other volunteers, and a nice hot shower. First of all, how to get there? If you can truly splurge, consider the train Ferrocarril Central Andino S.A. (website, with traditional train sounds). Yes, it's pricey, and yes, it's long, but its upsides more than make up for it. The train only runs about once a month and actually takes longer than the bus. But this is the highest passenger train in the Americas, starting near sea level and climbing up to over 15,000 feet as it passes through 69 tunnels, over 58 bridges and through 6 "zig zags". My favorite part was watching the landscapes change with a drink in hand at the bar car. As a bonus, you'll learn panpipes and "El Condor Pasa" by heart, since it's the only music they play for the advertised 13 hour trip. Granted, ours took longer- about 14 or 15 hours, but most things in Peru are not punctual. All in all, the train is a rare, unforgettable experience that most travelers to Peru don't even know about. OK, so now you're in Huancayo, by either the train or one of the many bus companies that visit such as Cruz del Sur. What is one to do in this city that's pretty unknown to international visitors? Most of these items below require little time to visit, and you can visit multiple in a day. Huancayo's central location also makes it a great stepping-stone for other sites such as the Selva Central (Oxapampa, Tarma, Pozuzo, etc.), the Reserva Paisajistica Nor-Yauyos Cochas, and Huancavelica. 1. Parque de la Identitad Huanca This park consists of beautiful works of stone, statues, and plants native to the Huancayo region. It's worth checking out for an hour or two, and some good restaurants are within walking distance. The level of detail and amount of objects actually inside is impressive. Highly recommended for lovers of irony, because this park dedicated to the local Huanca culture and people is modeled off of a similar park in Spain. 2. Get Lost in the Market(s) Huancayo is just a big market, really. If you visit on a Sunday, the size of the outdoor market rivals that of entire cities in other parts of Peru. My favorite is the artesian market next to the main plaza, where you can find scarves, hats, gloves, even slippers made of sheep and llama wool for cheap. The food markets are indoor and typical of the Sierra, with Quechua-speaking women selling all colors of potatoes and other products from nearby. There are nearby towns that specialize in specific artesian works, such as silver and ceramics, as well. 3. Torre Torre This site is inside the actual city and consists of tall towering rock piles. It's not a large area but is incredibly unique with tall, thin red and orange rock formations, rare in the Andes. 4. Adventure Tourism Options Although I visited Huancayo every month during my first Peace Corps service, I've actually never done these! Living in the rural campo, I didn’t want to rough it when outside of the village. There are tour operators for tourists to visit the snow-capped mountain Huaytapallana or take a bike down to the jungle, among other options. Since Huancayo isn't very touristy, you can be spontaneous instead of having to buy a spot for these tours well ahead of time. 5. Cerrito de la Libertad This is a small park at the top of a hill, and the location gives you a great view of the city and Mantaro valley. It’s worth a visit for the photos, to take in the views, and is located right in town. 6. Plaza de la Constitucion So, Peru's constitution was signed in Huancayo. But you'd never know by visiting this plaza- they don't sell it quite as well as Independence Hall in Philadelphia does. Still, it's an experience being in the main plaza, knowing its history and importance. This is near Coqui (see below) and an artesian market is located at the corner of this plaza. 7. Peña and Calientitos When it gets cold, try a calientito- these are warm pisco-based drinks that are perfect for getting cozy. Calientitos are also called chamis. This drink is very Huancaino and common throughout the region. A peña is a traditional show, and many offer great drink and food prices. Together they make a great combination for ending the day! 8. Cafe Coqui A great place to pass time or to share with someone over espresso and snacks. They have a good selection of pastries, and this is where I learned how to ask for cheesecake in Peru, when my friend tried to order a "Torta de Queso" and was corrected by the waitress, who said they only have cheesecake available- apparently they just say "cheesecake". I've spent countless hours using their wifi, reading emails or taking advantage of their happy hour with friends. 9. If you're looking for something obscure- Parque de los Sombreros Literally, Sombrero Park. I wouldn’t call this place life-changing. The main feature of this plaza is its namesake, which are gigantic sombrero statues modeled after the bowler hats worn by women in the city. If you feel this is tacky, you wouldn't be the first. It must be a cultural thing, because I just don’t get it. The only reason I know this park exists is because the car that left Huancayo for my site in Peace Corps left from here at 4:30AM every morning, and it was the only option for transportation. I actually don't even know what the entire park looks like, since there was no sunlight (and I was always half asleep) when I visited. But the larger-than-life sombreros are there. This I know. I have witnessed them. Of course, this list is not complete and was written in no particular order. Have you visited Huancayo or wish to soon? Do you have tips on other options in the city, or something to add to anything above? Feel free to comment and share with fellow explorers and explorers-at-heart!
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AuthorBrad Goodman Archives
May 2019
CategoriesAll Amazonas Andes Chachapoyas Huancayo Peru Rural Tourism Trains |